Ever wondered why Italian clothes have a reputation for being small? 9/10 times it's due to a store mis-labellling the product or you've missed an important detail on the sizing label. In all retailers defence, talking to clients about boring matters like imperial/metric conversions is not going to make us any money and is more likely to be met with a blank look as you walk out the door, bagless.
A new client of mine recently purchased a garment from an unnamed online 'made to measure' service prior to finding our shop. While I must admit the garment was an admirable fit considering the minimal number of measurements taken; the client was not particularly happy and asked for my opinion. Among other issues, the jacket was a poor fit around the shoulder, where the back was loose and creases had formed diagonally at the back of the underarm. I thought this might make for a useful article as it's something I often see and something rarely accounted for in many high street retailers.
Clients drive to work, sit down, immediately collapse forward and hunch over their keyboards, stay there for 10 hours, go home, collapse in front of the TV/Book and repeat ad infinitum.
Canali's new Winter range is arriving in store this September. To get everybody inspired I wanted to point out a few articles and videos on their website.
Andrea Pompilio, Canali's creative consultant, has posted his thoughts on the tone of AW15 here.
And the collection itself can be found here.
Of course, cottons vary but at least the essential information is agreed on as true by all parties. In contrast, terms like 'bespoke' are, more or less, used to sell a general notion of a specific service. But standards will vary enormously from one 'bespoke' product to the next. A suit that is advertised as 'bespoke' on the high street for £500 and a suit bought from Saville Row for £5,000 will share the term but little else.
Bespoke suits, in the opinion of this store, are suits made entirely from scratch, for one individual, with several fittings throughout the production to ensure a uniquely perfect fit. This process is slow, methodical and above all else, expensive. Expect to pay at LEAST £3000 for a basic suit. Please do not mis-understand me; Anthony does not make bespoke clothing. We offer three tailoring services for suits, jackets and trousers. They are Made to Measure, Made to Order and Ready To Wear. These increase in complexity and offer a good level of alterations, many made at the pattern cutting stage which provide an outstanding fit for the majority of individuals. But we work within a system offered to us by our suppliers. We go out of our way to provide the best suit for a given budget, which is not always something made to measure. Good outfitters need to be honest and up front about what they can and cannot do and what is the best spend for the customers needs.